Week 1

Belgrade Fortress

During my first week in Belgrade it became very clear that we, in America, are very spoiled!  Now, I am sure that those of you who spent their summers in Haiti or Sudan or Kazakhstan are much more in tune with this “realization” than I have become. But this is my experience, and it primarily revolves around food. If anyone is interested in writing about their experience, please let me know. I will be more than happy to post.

To make this post more visually interesting, I mixed in random photos from my first weekend exploring the city.

View towards Novi Beograd, Zemun, and the Statue of Victory

My second day in Belgrade, I realized I could not live off of gyros sold in a small shop by my apartment and went to the nearest supermarket (shown to me by the owner of the apartment I am renting). I don’t know why, but before I came to Belgrade I had grandiose dreams of experimenting with different recipes, becoming a  star chef, and generally continuing to cook the way I do at home in Brooklyn. Although, I did know that I would have to limit myself to stove-top cooked recipes, since all I have is a hot-plate. But hey, there is nothing wrong with a good grilled chicken breast, some ground beef, or pan-fried salmon. If they are mixed together it’s even better (just kidding).

Under a tree. They are there every time I walk by.

I don’t know why this thought did not cross my mind earlier, but I never thought that grocery stores in other countries would have a limited selection of food. (Oh wait, I know why! I live in America, where grocery stores are their own oases of off-season items and gluttony.) I was shell-shocked. I didn’t know what to get or even what to look for in this tiny, cramped, and semi-dark space. I did not recognize anything. I didn’t even know what to start looking for.

Belgrade Fortress

And I was completely freaked out by the meat selection. Besides the small selection of deli-cut salami and sausages/hot-dogs, there were a few packages of unidentified meat. To this day, I don’t know what it is. (Truthfully, I stopped trying to figure it out.) The meat was dark, it had bones, and there was blood and tendons.  Essentially, it looked like it should. But, in America, where everything is presented to us in bright florescent lights, packaged in air-sealed containers, and fully-cleaned, all we have to do is throw it on the grill, in the stove, or on the pan.

Belgrade Fortress

I am spoiled by this, and I am afraid two months will not change it. Don’t get it wrong. I am not scared of touching meat. I pride myself of knowing my way around a chicken breast, or getting my hands into a bowl of ground meat to mix the ingredients for meatballs or hamburger. But this is different. And I realize that it is because I am spoiled. So instead of sucking it up and getting my hands into the bones and tendons of a juicy, fresh chicken, I have resigned myself to being a vegetarian at home and eating meat in restaurants. In fact, below is a traditional dish, ćevapi, from a café I ventured into.

Ćevapi, traditional food of Serbia. Someone said it tastes like hamburgers, but they were British. 

What do they know?

After the first trip to the grocery store, I came home with a package of pasta, eggs, bread, tomatoes, cucumbers, and apples. Looking over my days “catch” I couldn’t help but think “What the hell am I going to do with this?” I settled for eating another gyro that night.

Ružica Church (Rose church) in the Belgrade Fortress

Over the last two weeks, it definitely got much better. I found a fresh market, where I buy plenty of in-season vegetables and make stir-frys, which I rotate eating with potatoes, pasta, or beans. I found that the selection of dairy products is incredible, and the abundance of bakeries keeps me stocked with fresh baked bread. I learned that most people get their meat at butcher shops, although since my fridge is tiny, I won’t be venturing into those. I also found out that huge, “American-style” super-markets exist outside of Stari Grad, but require a car to get to. Two weeks into my trip, I have settled into the routine and have become comfortable in my surroundings. But, I sure do look forward to that nice, thick juicy steak when I get back home.

Pobednik (Statue of Victory) commemorates Serbian victory over Ottoman Empire and Austria-Hungry 

Oh, in case you were wondering about the photos. These are from my first Saturday and Sunday exploring the city. They are of Kalemegdan, the Belgrade Fortress, and the views from these ancient structures, which are right in the middle of the city! While America has spoiled me in terms of food, I am afraid Belgrade will spoil me with its beautiful views. Not sure if the NYC skyline will cut it anymore. 

Portraits of Rome Exibit under Belgrade Fortress

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