Week 4 & Week 5

Danube River from Zemun River Bank Promenade 

It has been unbelievable hot here. Temperatures are hitting 100 F, which might not seem like that extraordinary to some of you but a lack of AC wherever I go is something I am not used to. Makes me realize that America's obsession with air-conditioning is incredible. I remember the days of sitting at my job in the middle of summer, complaining how cold I was and needing a sweater. Not here! Here it is hot inside, and the AC at work has been broken for a week. A week! Even when the AC is on, most places (screw that, every place) keeps it at a much higher level than what we are all used to. Again, makes me realize how spoiled I have become. 

Zemun River Bank Promenade

On the hottest day ever, I decided to venture to Zemun – a neighborhood/separate city of Belgrade (depending if you are a Zemun resident or not). While walking through Stari Grad to get to the bust to take me to my destination, I felt like I was being crushed by the oppressive hot air mass. Immediately, there was a feeling of delusion – am I about to pass out, or is the air just really thick and hot? Questioning my decision to go anywhere, I had to constantly remind myself that I did not have AC in my apartment and sitting in a hot room would not be better.

View of Zemun from Zemun Tower with Belgrade in background

The reason for Zemun’s uniqueness lies in its history. Up until WWII, Zemun was a separate town across the Sava River from Belgrade. Sometime in the 1700s (I think), it was conquered by the Austrian Empire, which contributes to its unique architecture, quite different from the main city of Belgrade. Only after WWII, when Belgrade began to spread beyond its borders, was Zemun incorporated into the rest of the city. Although, most Zemun residents still refuse to acknowledge that they are Belgradians.

Kula Sibinjanin Janka Tower (Zemun Tower)

In Zemun, however, the hot, oppressive air mass vanished as I was greeted by the smells and sounds of the river walk. Lined with trees and cute restaurants, the river walk proved a haven from the stuffiness of Stari Grad. While I still took it slow, moving from one shady spot to another, the day proved to be beautiful – composed of moving from café to restaurant to view points.

Tašci for Lunch at Kafe Galerija

Climbing to the famous Zemun tower, which like all major sights in Belgrade has not been open to the public due to renovation for years, I had to walk up a cobble stone street. Although I have never been to quaint European villages or towns, this reminded me of something I would see in a Dutch village. You could even hear the water rushing through the sewer system below your feet.

Hariseva Chapel

I also managed to find a cherry tree while walking down a cute little stairway from Zemun Tower. I know the tree was private, but I couldn’t help myself and stole some cherries, while nervously checking my surroundings for angry owners and dogs.

Staircase from Zemun Tower

I enjoyed the relative quietness and relative coolness of Zemun so much, that I decided to go back the following weekend to visit their beach. Awesome time spent! This statement might sound sarcastic to some, especially in reading the next few lines, but I assure you I meant it. Everything you expect from a Soviet beach you get. Men in tight speedos, naked children, skinny model looking girls, corn-on-the-cob, beer, old ladies with flatulence problems... Despite the last, I plan on going back. Anything to beat this heat and escape the AC-less apartment. 

Lido Beach at Great War Island on Danube River

 You can also follow me on Twitter